Digital Rights Management, or DRM, is a set of user access control technologies used to protect
the intellectual property contained in copyrighted materials from unauthorized use or theft.
Although DRM is widely used today, its history has been fraught with controversy. Although
record companies, publishers and other content providers claim it is necessary to protect
themselves against bankruptcy due to online piracy, its critics contend that it stifles innovation
and inconveniences users, while failing to actually protect against piracy.

In essence, DRM attempts to limit how a consumer can use a product after purchasing it. This
limitation can take the form of controlling access or preventing the user from copying the
material. This is typically achieved by encryption or tag embedding within the copyrighted
material to prevent it from being freely reproduced. Although this keeps users from copying
material and uploading it to file sharing services, it also prevents them from making personal
backup copies for their own archives, an activity which does not explicitly violate the law.

DRM can encompass many different technologies, from CableCard access limitation on cable
television to copy protection on music CDs. One of the earliest widespread uses of DRM
technology was the content scrambling system used in early DVD movies. It essentially rendered
all DVDs unplayable, except on players made by companies that had licensed the content
scrambling technology on their machines.

Within a few years, hackers had found their way to compromise the process and it was no
longer feasible. Although new DRM technologies have also come along, hackers are continually
working to crack them. Part of the limitation on media encryption is also due to legal limitations:
materials exported from the United States cannot contain advanced cryptography at the
level used by the government, because it would present a national security risk were it to be
compromised and fall into the wrong hands.

The main problem with DRM in its application is that it is not immune to hacking. Although
DRM prevents users from copying files to spread, hackers have sidestepped DRM technologies
time and time again. For example, the copy protection technology that was once commonplace
on music CDs not only prevented users from burning the discs to their own personal hard drives,
but even from playing the discs on their computers or in their cars in many cases.

Many consumers were understandably angry over not being able to legitimately use materials
they had paid for without any prior warning of its limitations, and hackers quickly found their
way around the technologies – which in some cases was as simple as marking the “protected”
discs with a black Sharpie. In the end, only the law-abiding users were inconvenienced, and the
law-breakers still found a way to pirate material. And in the world of peer-to-peer file sharing,
all it takes is one single user cracking a DRM technology to spread the material to millions of
others.

Although DRM shows no sign of disappearing since its introduction in the late 90s, it will never
be perfect or beyond controversy. In essence, it bears the same limitations of measures designed
to control the smuggling of guns, drugs or any other restricted material – only those who abide

by the law will be restricted, and outlaws will continue to defy it. As long as there is money to
be made in pirated intellectual property, tech companies and publishers will always be racing to
keep up with the pirates.

If you have a collection of discs it is almost invariable that some of them will become damaged over time. If your discs do suffer from defects such as scratches, chips, cracks, spotting, or degradation, it may be possible to rescue the data contained on them.

Your first attempts to recover your data should involve a personal attempt to solve the problem. You may spend a little time, but it’s much more affordable to give recovery a shot yourself before paying someone else to do it.

A number of programs have been created over the years which help users of different operating systems to attempt to restore data lost on optical discs. These each work in different ways, but it is very common for very slow low level passes over difficult to read sections of a disc to be used to piece together the data puzzle. When using discs with physical damage (such as cracks or chips), make sure to pay close attention to the recovery process at all times as damage to your drive may result if a disc shatters under the rotational force of the process.

A couple of commonly used Windows programs are CD Recovery Toolbox and Roadkil’s Unstoppable Copier. For linux operating systems ddrescue is a solid option that uses a command line interface. For a variety of Oses (including MacOS) dvdisaster is available, and the bonus for this program is that it can be used as an advanced recovery method, generating data profiles on your media to allow you to have an easier time recovering if anything does happen to a disc after it has been profiled.

Many other options can be found at Wikipedia (some of the programs on this page only deal with non-optical media, so read carefully) or by searching the internet. When using any program, be sure to read the manual carefully in order to give yourself the best possible chance of recovering lost data, and to ensure that you are not attempting to do something the program is not designed to handle.

Professional services can restore from damage of a much more severe nature. Discs that have literally been snapped in half or otherwise shattered can be read by specialized labs. These companies are also your go-to solution when personal computer based solutions fail. Many major cities have businesses that specialize in data recovery. Your search for further assistance should start close to home to save on shipping fees and to minimize potential further damage which can be incurred when mailing discs. If you do not have a good local business, check online for options.

Actual data recovery fees vary widely by the amount of damage, the volume of discs you need restored, and the business you choose. Reputable businesses will offer you a consultation before you pay them. If the company you get in touch with does not, look further.

There’s a growing number of people who are unable to access their library of VHS video
footage. Players for the old tapes have become increasingly scarce, and loss of quality based on wear
and tear is a real issue with the old medium.

Converting from VHS to a digital video format and saving all of those precious memories on
DVD disc is something that isn’t that difficult to do. It is often possible to handle the conversion at
home with a fairly minor outlay of capital. There are also numerous professional conversion companies
whose facilities have all the tools in them to handle updating a collection to a digital format.

DIY Conversion

There are four components to converting VHS to DVD in a home environment. The first is the
computer with a DVD burner, which costs from $300 on up without a monitor. The second is a player
for the tapes; something that runs $40 plus excluding a TV. The third is a cable to make a connection
from the VCR to the computer; a piece of hardware which may be bundled with software and costs $25
and up. The final component is a piece of conversion software; something with a starting price of free.
Even including a cheap TV and monitor it would be possible to get a conversion setup for around $600.
For those with most of the equipment already, you might spend just $25 plus the (low) cost of blank
DVDs.

Setting up to do the conversion is fairly simple. You just set the VCR and TV up then use the
cable to connect the VCR to the computer. On the computer you install the software. Put the tape to be
converted in the VCR, the DVD to be burned in the optical drive, and then utilize the program to first
transfer the digital video, then (either using the same program or a DVD authoring program) burn the
DVD. The exact specifics will vary depending on your setup, but that’s the gist of it. Simple, and not
terribly expensive.

Getting Expert Help

In the event that you want to avoid your own time and materials to handle the task, there are
plenty of professional services available. Most major cities have businesses which can handle the
conversion of VHS to DVD for a flat fee per tape. Some of them offer video cleaning services which
will enhance the quality of the videos before they are put on tape. This is something that is available as
a DIYer, but is a bit more complicated and might be better left to professionals if it’s something you’re
interested in.

Fees for these services vary by business, and you have to balance the convenience of a local
business with potential price savings available online. If you’re lucky enough to live near a business
with great per-tape prices and a solid offering of video cleanup services, your choice will be easy.

Bear in mind that professional services can offer conversion to DVD from other sources than
VHS. Many will scan photos or negatives, handle 8mm film, and work with MiniDV or Hi8. A good,
professional conversion service is generally very well-rounded, and can help you update your family’s
entire history to an appropriate digital format and store it on DVDs.

Most commercially manufactured disc drives are sturdy and able to perform well with little maintenance. However, if you have a drive for a long time or use it in a workspace with excessive dust in the air (such as in a factory, on a job site, or in an arid climate), it’s probably a good idea to clean it out occasionally. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that cleaning should be a routine though. In this case too much of a good thing is a real issue, as cleaning a drive can result in damage over time.

When a disc drive gets too dirty, it can suffer from increased loading time, skip, or –in extreme cases–  even damage discs. Telltale signs that it’s time to clean your disc drive include an increase in noise as the disc spins and a marked decrease in performance regardless of which disc you attempt to play. If only one disc is loading slowly or skipping then it’s probably the disc that is scratched. If they’re all slowing down then it’s most likely an issue with your drive.

Your first course of action for cleaning out a drive should be to blow air into it. Do not blow with your mouth as doing so will send saliva into the drive. Though a hair dryer with a cool setting can be used, it is too inaccurate for this task. Short, controlled bursts are the best way to clean out a drive and not just move dust around. For best results you should use a can of compressed air or an air bulb.

If you’re feeling brave, you can also take the drive apart and clean the lens yourself. This can damage delicate components and will likely void your warranty if the product is still covered. It’s probably best to take your drive to a repair shop if you do feel the need to do something invasive. A better option is to buy some extra-long cotton swabs, apply rubbing alcohol to one, and insert it directly into the drive to clean the lens. This can be difficult to do correctly and you still have to be somewhat careful, it’s still safer and less involved than taking the drive apart. Determining where the lens in your drive is may be made easier by looking online for the specifications of your unit.

Perhaps the easiest manner to clean a drive is to buy a drive cleaning kit. These are made by many manufacturers and most cost under $20. Each cleaning kit works slightly differently so you’ll need to follow the individual instructions that come with your package.

A comprehensive, professional cleaning at a computer repair shop normally provides the best results. This can be monetarily expensive and will also cost you a day or more of down time as you wait for the cleaning to be carried out. With that in mind, the above methods are good first steps if you find yourself in possession of a poorly functioning disc drive. So before spending the money to have it taken apart and professionally cleaned, you should at least consider trying these simple at-home cleaning methods.

Gifts which have been put together by hand have long been considered by many to be more thoughtful than those just purchased from the store. In the modern world it is possible to create some great digital gifts and put them on a CD or DVD disc in order to give them to your friends, co-workers, or family members. Take a look at these four ideas:

1. A Photo Album

Classic photo albums have been a gift for years. With the advent of computers and in particular digital photography we now have the ability to put a large number of photos onto a disc. While a classic album might have had room for twenty to a hundred photos, you can fit far more images than that onto a disc. So there’s no need to agonize over a choice between the picture of your sister getting soaked by cousin John doing a cannonball at the pool, or the one of her chasing him in the parking lot. You can add them both to the gift, and still have plenty of room for those pictures of her solo at the jazz choir concert.

2. A Music Compilation

Long ago people used to make each other mix-tapes, but now you can make a compilation on disc from all the music you want to share. You can choose from making a disc which will run on a normal CD player (which will get you about 70 minutes of music), but many players now offer the ability to play digital MP3 files as well. This means you can put a huge number of songs on a single disc.

3. A Video From a Special Event

With digital video incredibly commonplace on phones and hand held recorders making a chronicle of an event can be a lot of fun. A great idea for a wedding is to encourage all of your friends and family to film away with their own devices, and to send you the videos they take. A little editing and piecing together of the pieces can make for a fabulous gift to send everyone with  (or even as) the thank-you cards. Video recordings from all kinds of events can be a great way to let people relive memories, or keep them connected when they’re far away.

4. A Collection of Keepsake Messages

Life is full of milestones, and sometimes it’s a great idea to commemorate them with messages from friends, co-workers, and loved ones. Graduations, promotions, retirements, enlistments, and more. The list of special events in our lives go on and on, and making a compilation of video messages from yourself and others related to an important day in someone’s life can really let them know just how you all feel about them.

All of these ideas require a bit of software and some knowledge to implement, but they don’t have to cost much to make, and they have a great deal of sentimental impact when done properly. So if you’re looking for a great idea, consider one of these four ways to make use of discs. You’ll be giving someone a gift they’re not going to forget.

Plenty of ways to tighten up your presentation of the discs you create exist, but there’s none that can look quite as nice as putting a design on the discs themselves. In order to do this, however, you will need to secure the correct materials.

You have a number of options available to you. One is to purchase a specialized piece of hardware called a thermal printer. These print on lacquered discs and produce results that are permanent. Inexpensive thermal printers are often only able to do limited printing, however. It is not until you lay out a large amount of money that you can print complex images, and printers that can handle color images are even more expensive than those restricted to monochrome.

Another option is to use labels which are printed out on an ordinary printer and then peeled off and applied to the disc. This is absolutely an option which will allow you to print in full color and give your discs an interesting look for relatively little money. It has a major downside in that labels will eventually peel, and this is not at all good for disc drives. But if all you are looking for is a very affordable way to make discs look good and you have no real longevity requirements, this is a great way to do it.

It is also possible to print directly onto discs using a number of commercial inkjet printers. These printers frequently offer a kind of tray used in the printing of discs. They require special printable media, but these inkjet printable discs are made by many good manufacturers. The largest problem with these discs tends to be that the inks can smear before they are dry or during use. You can use a printer cartridge with pigment inks to avoid this. It is also possible to use a clear fixative spray to put a thin layer over the ink, though when done poorly this can look very spotty, so use caution. All-in-all this is a very good way to handle your finishing needs for a relatively low cost.

No matter how you choose to finish off your discs you will find that each of these methods lends a more professional look to your projects. It doesn’t matter if you are making your discs for business or pleasure, a snappy end result is always something to take pride in.

Sometimes you need to ensure that data on a CD or DVD is safe. The best way to protect against any kind of damage that might take your discs out of action is to make an image of them as a backup. An image is simply a complete copy of all the information contained on a disc.

Disc images come in many formats. ISO and DMG (Mac) are the two most common, but there are many others which may be used depending on which program you choose for your imaging needs. In the end it doesn’t really matter that much what format you use, as the program you choose will allow you to manipulate it later.

Picking out a piece of software is usually a matter of deciding what you need it to do, and how much you’re willing to pay. As a basic, free Windows utility you can usually do well with is ImgBurn. Mac users will love Disco which is free using the license code posted on the main page of the site. As with many other types of software, Wikipedia provides a list of other options.

Once you have your chosen piece of software installed, it’s generally extremely simple to proceed. Most image burning programs offer a simple user interface which will guide you through the process of choosing an image format, selecting your disc source, and choosing an output. Generally you have the option to save your image file to your hard drive, or copy it to another disc.

Once you have your image, you just need to determine how you want to store it. There are far more a few ways to go about storing images you create, of course. You can burn a new disc with an image you have created, store it on your computer, move it to another system, throw it onto a USB flash drive, or even take the time to upload it onto a cloud solution.

First off, it is important to realize that the best is always a subjective concept, and that no matter what advice you receive, you’ll need to remember this rule: trial and error using the equipment you intend to use under the conditions you expect the discs to be able to withstand is the most reliable method of determining what works best for you.

With that out of the way, there are absolutely certain things which can be said for recordable CDs in general. The first is that you should never consider the CD-R a viable long term storage option. By their very nature, CD-R media degrade over time. While manufacturers will claim extreme shelf life, the truth is that most will degrade in 5-10 years. Some poor quality discs will last far less time than this. This is particularly true in extreme environments such as heat, damp, or cold.

While the available data on CD-Rs is too immense (thousands of reviews, tests, and opinions are available, some more objective, others wholly subjective) to attempt to even summarize in table form, it’s very possible to shine a light on some of the most common recommended brands. Each of them has been cited for quality. Though some are more durable and others more reliable (even among different types of CD-Rs within brands) all of these brands maintain a high standard across the board, and have been suggested time and again by multiple sources.

Often-Recommended (alphabetical):

Mitsui, Taiyo Yuden (the author’s favored brand, sometimes also labeled as JVC), and TDK. (Note that Fuji, HP, Philips, Sony, and Yamaha all generally re-brand disks from these three manufacturers, and are also reliable as a result.) Pioneer and Ricoh are second-tier recommendations, and should also be considered worth looking at.

There are also manufacturers who produce discs that are most often cited as being troublesome. Unless otherwise unavoidable it’s wise to steer clear of them.

Best to Avoid (again, alphabetical):

First and foremost: do not use “no-name” discs no matter how little they may cost. (Unless you can confirm that they’re from one of the manufacturers above, but that’s rare.) Otherwise, definitely be wary of discs from CMC Magnetics, Fornet, Gigastorage, Hotan, Lead Data, Hotan, Maxell, Memorex, Princo and Verbatim.

If a brand is not listed above there is a reasonable chance that it is a middle of the road option and should be considered potentially viable if other recommended alternatives do not present themselves.

Finally, it’s wise to remember that not all CD-R’s are created equal within a brand. There are exceptions, particularly within the recommendations to avoid. Usually these are higher-priced CD-R’s from a specific brand. (Though a higher price is not always an indicator of quality, there are many CD-Rs on the recommended list to be had for low prices.) It is important to note that in general these are no better than a typical CD-R from the recommended brands.

But following the rule we started out with, if you can secure a small variety of discs to test on your recorder(s) and player(s) before making a large volume purchase (which is always the best way to go about acquiring CD-Rs as the prices are very compelling) it can help you narrow down this broad field.

Best of luck finding your best CD-R.